The Grayline Oval Bait Tank you have purchased is a result of years of working with a variety of forage fish, both in fresh and saltwater. We have seen a need for a "better system" and believe through many hours of design and redesign, the Grayline Tank Series, both the oval and the round series, is one of the most efficient system available anywhere today. The following directions and suggestions will aid in keeping your bait alive and healthy for many enjoyable hours of fishing.
HOOKING UP THE ELECTRICAL
Your Bait Tank pump comes pre-wired. The only connection that you will need to do is connect the open wires to your power source. The wire will have red paint on it and this connects to the positive power source. The other wire is to be connected to the negative power source. There is a quick disconnect that will be between the open wires and your pump. This connection will enable you to leave the power source portion connected but not have the pump connected when the bait tank is not in use or is being stored also so that you do not have to reconnect the power source leads each time you use the bait tank.
If for whatever reason the pump requires replacing please mark how the wires from the pump are used. The brown wire (positive) from the pump will need to be rewired to the positive feed to the power source.
If when using the tank for the first time the water is not being pumped it will be because the power feeds are not connected properly and you will need to reset the power connections.
FILTER BOX PREPARATION
Place the separator screen in the bottom of the filter box.
Put the 1" black foam pads on top of the separator screen.
Precut the supplied white Poly-Fil material into rectangular pieces slightly larger than one of the black foam pads. Place all but 3 of these in a plastic storage bag for use later.
Pre wet the white Poly-Fil material prior to placing it in the filter box.
Place the 3 layers of the Poly-Fil material, one layer at a time, on top of the black foam pad.
During use, when the top layer of the Poly-Fil material becomes clogged, start at one corner and "jelly roll" the soiled layer up and discard it in the trash. The second layer will instantly be filtering any secondary debris. Please carry a sealable food storage bag for this purpose and discard the soiled material properly when you reach shore.
Note: Should the black foam pad become clogged, shut off the pump momentarily, allow any water above the pad to drain down, then remove the pad and rinse it in the lake. Reinstall the black foam pad, then the Poly-Fil sheets and restart the pump.
Note: We use new Poly-Fil on every recharge of the tank. Poly-Fil can be obtained at local discount stores, sewing stores or hobby stores. It is used as filler for quilting. The 3 or 4 ounce weight is the best.
TANK PREPARATION
Fill the tank to the proper level, which is just to the bottom of the filter box. There is a line on the filter box to indicate the proper level. Over filling will flood the filter box and slow the filtering process. If city water is used, be sure to include a de-chlorinating chemical. "Sure-Life" Dechlor is added at one teaspoon per 10 gallons. Non-iodized salt can be obtained at a Wal-Mart. Please be sure to use non-iodized salt.
Add the "Sure-Life" product that supports the specific bait you are retaining per the manufacturer's suggestions. When your choice of bait is freshwater shad, stock rock salt can be used and is a clean, inexpensive alternative--one cup per 10 gallons of water.
Foam formed on the surface of the water in a tank can rob the water of the extra oxygen it could contain. Foam can be removed by adding "Sure-Life" Foam-off per directions on the container.
TRANSFERRING BAIT TO THE TANK
Baits should be shaken from the cast net straight into a transfer vessel containing water where culling must be done to eliminate loose scales and unwanted baits. When culling, use a small net instead of your hands to place the choice baits into the tank water.
After you have all the bait you need, pour the contents of the transfer vessel back into the lake and return any unneeded baits to the lake.
ADDING BAIT FISH
When adding bait to a tank, always try to keep count. Never over populate your tank with a bushel basket catch dropped directly into the tank. This results in a congested tank and over-contaminated water. Bait usually dies quickly because contaminates (scales and debris) enter the bait's mouth while breathing and cross over and lodge on the gills, preventing the bait from receiving the air needed. Never keep small bait fish that you don't intend to use because they steal oxygen needed by more desirable baits.
Keep in mind that the larger the bait, the smaller the numbers that can be kept. The 30 gallon tank will keep appox. 30-36 6" baits and 48-60 4" baits. The larger 50 gallon tank will hold bait in the same proportions.
The oval insulated tank is constructed to hold water temps down in hot summer months, preferably 62-65 degrees. Adding bagged ice to the water after the bait is caught works best. Gradually bring the temp down by adding one bag at a time. This will not give the bait thermal shock like taking it from 80-90 degree water and dropping it into 65 degree water. A simple thermometer can be used to accurately monitor the water temperature. Another good method of reducing the water temperature is to use water frozen in a half- gallon milk type container which can be reused.
DRAINING THE TANK
After removing all unused baits from the tank back into the lake remove the plug from the back of the tank and allow the water to drain into the lake. If you are using a separate pump to drain the tank insert it into the tank and drain the water over the side of your boat.